LDG AT-1000 autotuner acting strangely on some bands?

LDG autotuners are famous products worldwide, and for good reason: they are very well designed and built, providing a convenient solution when needed. There are very few complaints about them, as a quick Internet survey showed me. Why did I search, you say?

The other day a friend sent me an LDG AT-1000 that was acting up on some bands, failing to provide a match or even maximising SWR instead of minimising it, but working fairly well on other bands. He had been told it's the microcontroller's fault, and LDG even sent him a replacement chip (thumbs up for that kind of customer service), but the problem remained exactly the same with the new chip.

A quick check showed he was quite right: on 80, 40 and 30 meters the tuner was acting as a mismatcher, rather than a matcher. On 20 meters and higher bands, it worked rather well, although it seemed a bit "sluggish" (how's that for a scientific term?).

After examining the circuit in and out, I was sure that all of the relays, inductors and capacitors of the matching network were OK. I connected a dummy load at the output of the unit and saw that the autotuner indicated significant reflected power on 40 m, although there should have been none (I had it in the "bypass" position). "The SWR bridge circuit must be unbalanced", I thought - but why was it unbalanced on a specific frequency range? A Bruene circuit, if misadjusted,  behaves progressively worse as the frequency is raised - here, it was just the opposite! Nevertheless, I proceeded to balance the SWR bridge. For this, I cut the wire connecting the SWR circuit to the input of the tuner PCB, and connected a precision dummy load right after the bridge PCB with a very short piece of coax. I set an RF generator on 30 MHz and nulled the reflected power reading using the trimmer capacitor. Curiously, it was off by just a little. Hmmmmm...

Fig. 1. The bridge PCB in its original state.

After reconnecting everything back, I checked again on 40 meters with the dummy load at the output of the tuner, which was in the "bypass" position. There was a significant reflected power reading on the tuner's meter again - but NOT actual reflected power, as another SWR meter between the generator and the tuner showed me! Furthermore, on 20 meters there wasn't any reflected power indication on the tuner's meter with the same conditions! So something was clearly amiss with the bridge - but all of its components had checked out OK! Curiouser and curiouser!

Fig. 2. Look ma, no screws!

Fig. 3. The hi-tech insulators.

 After a considerable period of head-scratching, the light went on. The fact that the bridge was balanced on 30 MHz but not balanced on 7 MHz showed that at the lower frequency the RF currents must have been taking a detour. The only way I could visualise that happening, was through the grounding posts and grounding wire connected to the SWR meter PCB (Fig. 1 - click on the photos to enlarge). So I removed the two screws affixing the PCB to the posts, also disconnecting the wire this way. I checked again on 80 and 40 meters - and bingo! No reflected power indication any more! The bridge nulling remained excellent across 1.8 - 30 MHz. When I touched the PCB to the posts, the reflected power reading jumped up again. 

So, I modified the bridge structure by insulating the PCB from the grounding posts, as shown in Figs 2 and 3. I used a little square piece of thick paper at each post, hot-glued to the PCB and posts to accomplish my goal. I completely removed the grounding wire. After re-nulling the bridge (just to be sure), the tuner worked perfectly on all bands, with no abnormal readings at all. It even produced a 1:1 match feeding my 20 m quarter-wave ground plane at 80 m!

So, if your AT-1000 is horsing around on some bands, this trick may well work for you too. LDG might want to have a look into this matter and modify the design. For me it was yet another good reminder that RF currents, given half a chance, rarely pass from exactly where we would like them to!

Addendum: I just purchased a very nice LDG Z-817H tuner for my bicycle HF hamming during the summer! It has a different structure at our point of interest (the Bruene directional coupler is located on the main board) and a series of tests with various types of load conditions showed no tendencies for whimsical behavior. It successfully matched whatever I threw at it and had a nice time doing it. The directional coupler stays balanced throughout the operating range. Well done, LDG!

The Mysterious Case of the Withering Filters

The ceramic filters found in almost all  radio communications equipment are indeed extremely useful components. Small, cheap and efficient, those "little black boxes" have found widespread use by all the manufacturers. I used to think that they're almost indestructible, because I had never seen one of them fail - but this fact has changed.

I have recently come across several cases of VHF-UHF transceivers where the receiver suddenly went deaf, faintly hearing signals only above -60dBm. The culprit was the ceramic 2nd IF filter (450 or 455 kHz) in all those cases. All those filters I have examined showed the same symptoms: the output side showed a low (a few tens of ohms) resistance to ground for DC, where it should have been almost infinite resistance.

After a while (and having replaced several such filters in my friends' transceivers), I became curious and investigated the reasons why those fairly robust components had become bad.

First, let's talk a bit about their structure (see the diagram I made, click on it to enlarge). Most of the 6-pole ceramic filters used in amateur radio transceivers have the general structure shown on the left. There are six ceramic (barium titanate, if memory serves) resonator elements, three in series and three shunt, connected as shown. The series elements are thick, the shunt elements are thin, and both have their wide surfaces plated with a metal (I guess it's a silver alloy). The narrow edge surfaces are not plated.

There are metal inserts between the ceramic elements, making contact to the plated surfaces of the elements and providing the electrical connections to the outside world. The whole structure is housed in a small plastic case, which is hermetically sealed with epoxy resin at the bottom side, where the pins come out.

So, what was the problem? While waiting for a replacement filter for a rig, I decided to try to pry open the case of the failed filter. I did so with the edge of a very sharp X-acto cutter, and I carefully removed the black case. One of the ceramic resonators fell off, along with a (phosphor bronze?) tensioner spring plate, which keeps everything pressed together when the filter is in its case.

It was immediately evident that something was wrong, because the spring plate was visibly oxidised, and there were suspicious looking spots at the edges of the thin ceramic element (you may notice one of them just below the right corner). I measured with my ohmmeter and saw that that element was the bad one, because the resistance reading was 19 ohms, the same value I had previously measured between the output pin and ground. If you take a good look at the next macro photo, you will see that the corners of the other elements also have low-resistance deposited paths short-circuiting the elements in the same way (also, look at the lower part of the diagram). To my surprise, with a magnifying glass I observed tiny droplets of a clear liquid (water, I think) at the inside walls of the case! What was the story here?

Hello, electromigration! The "crime scene" had all the necessary elements required for electromigration to do its nasty stuff. But let's take things in order.

a) Ceramic filter manufacturers (ALL of them!) expressly warn against applying a DC voltage at the input and output pins of the filters. Why? The reason is electromigration!

b) Electromigration is a process where, under the influence of an electric field and in the slightest presence of moisture, metal (especially silver) starts migrating and forming conductive paths (called dendrites, from their tree-like appearance, δένδρον [dendron] in Greek) across insulating materials. This phenomenon is a major headache e.g. for IC manufacturers, significantly lowering the reliability of their products.

c) The final result in our case is that (especially across the thin ceramic element edges) conductive paths of metal (and oxides from the electrolytic process since moisture exists inside the filter) are formed, short-circuiting it. Good-bye, filter?

Don't fret, there is still hope! (if you're good at handling very small parts - that's the catch). I thought that if I could get the elements out of the structure one by one and clean their edges, thus eliminating the conductive path, perhaps the filter would work again. That's very easy, because they aren't soldered in place, they just get "clamped" between pairs of contacts when the filter case is in place. If you decide to do that, only get ONE element out at a time with a pair of needle-nose tweezers, clean all of its its narrow edges by wiping them lightly across very fine grit sandpaper a couple of times and then replace it exactly where and how it was - don't mix them up! Also, don't touch the resonator elements with your hands, finger oils will contaminate them and possibly change their resonant frequency! Carefully clean oxidation wherever you can spot it by scraping, always being careful not to spill the guts of the filter! If you do spill them, they can be put back in place IF you have taken notes and photos of the filter's structure. I cleaned and dried the interior of the case, too. Before putting each resonator back in its place, check with your ohm-meter, you should get an infinite resistance reading - anything else indicates you need to repeat the cleaning process - gently!

Finally, I put the filter back together, sealed it with a minute quantity of cyanoacrylate and soldered it back in the transceiver. Lo and behold, the receiver sprang back to life - and at full specified sensitivity, as my measurements showed. The pass-band response hasn't changed. I think that now, after my delicate sandpaper treatment, the filter is a lot less possible to again fall victim to the nasty electromigration, because all the edges are quite clean now, there isn't any metal there any more.Time will show!

The final word: Ceramic filter manufacturers are quite right in warning against applying DC voltages at the input / output pins of the filters. They specify the use of a DC blocking capacitor at the filter's input and especially the output. Application of DC voltage causes electromigration and corrosion to initiate (especially in humid environments where temperature variations eventually promote water vapor condensation inside the filter, which may have imperfect sealing), and after a period of time the filter fails in the way we discussed.

The funny thing is, most of the manufacturers of amateur radio (and commercial) transceivers amazingly and inexplicably DON'T use the blocking capacitors, instead they boldly apply DC potentials directly at the filter's pins. A survey of several schematic diagrams confirmed this, especially in transceivers where there are several ceramic filters switched in and out of the signal path with diodes  and DC bias (usually about 8V). Why they do so beats me, perhaps it is to save some cents for a pair of blocking capacitors for each filter, creating a huge reliability problem on the way...

The enterprising radio amateur can always add those capacitors in the circuit (0.1 μF, 50V, 0603 size SMD ceramic capacitors are great) and save her / his receiver from becoming deaf due to a ...withering filter! Admittedly, this is a bit difficult in most modern rigs, due mainly to the small dimensions of the components and layout... but it's certainly worth a try.

***ADDENDUM: For those who want to learn more about the phenomenon that I propose that causes DC-biased filter failure, please take a look here: http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/0158_emgr/index.html

There you can admire two great photos of the results of electromigration across tracks and solder resist on printed circuit boards, plus lots of interesting relevant information. Clearly, humidity and voltage gradients at small distances are a bad combination!!

Good ceramic filter reviving to all of you!!